Zebras

The term zebras refers to any of the three species of strikingly black-and-white striped mammals of the horse family (genus Equus); the plains zebra, found in the rich grasslands over much of eastern and southern Africa; Grevy’s zebra, which lives in arid, sparsely wooded areas in Kenya; and the mountain zebra which inhabits dry upland plains in Namibia and South Africa. The plains zebra is made up of six subspecies; Crawshay’s, half-maned, Grant’s, Chapmann’s, Burchell’s and quagga, which is extinct. Botswana is populated with large herds of the plains zebra, predominantly Burchell’s.

Zebras are closely related to domestic horses. They are large single-hoofed ungulates built for speed and long-distance migrations. They typically stand about 47-55 inches at the shoulder. Plains zebra weigh 400-850 pounds. Sexes are the same size in the plains zebra. Males do have spade-shaped canines used in fighting. The teeth of all three species are adapted for grazing.

All zebras are dark-skinned. Their stripes arise from melanocytes that selectively determine the pigmentation of the fur. The cells transfer melanin into some of the animal’s growing hairs. Hairs that contain melanin appear black, whereas those without melanin appear white. Many have brown tinges or coloring in the white areas, presumably due to lower melanin levels.

In the plains zebra the stripes are wide and widely spaced. Some have lighter “shadow stripes” between the main stripes. Many scientists maintain that the zebra’s stripes evolved to thwart horse fly infestation. A 2019 study showed that the zebra’s black and white striped pattern appeared to confuse biting horse flies.

Two types of mating systems are observed in zebras. Like the horse, the mountain and plains zebras live in small family groups consisting of a stallion and several mares with their foals. The females that inhabit the harem are unrelated. The females mate only with their stallion. Gestation is 11-13 months, with one foal only. Foals nurse for about 12 months.

With plentiful food, small groups may coalesce into large herds or “dazzles” and still maintain their identity. When we were at Four Rivers Camp this year, we saw huge collections of zebras estimated at 400 animals or more. Zebras often form mixed herds with other mammals such as wildebeests and giraffes. Zebras with young colts avoid predators such as hyenas by forming a cluster around the mother and foal. Available surface water is a critical need.

Zebras are considered to be in the “near threatened” category. All three species have decreased in abundance through human activities; Grevy’s are considered an endangered species.

Hyenas, Jackals and Foxes

Two of these species belong to the family “canidae”. Although hyenas may look like dogs but are actually descended from cats. So lets proceed in the above order.

Hyenas

Hyenas are the fifth smallest family in the order Carnivora. They are unique and vital components of most African ecosystems. Both hyenas and canines are non-arboreal, curatorial hunters that catch prey with their teeth rather than claws. Both eat food quickly, and their calloused feet are adapted for running and making sharp turns. Their other habits including grooming, scent marking, defecation routines, mating and parental behavior are consistent with feline behavior.

The four species are the striped hyena, the brown hyena, the spotted hyena and the aardwolf (already covered). Spotted and brown hyenas live primarily in sub-Saharan Africa, and are very common in Botswana. They are noted for their scavenging habits.

Hyenas have long forelegs and powerful neck and shoulders for dismembering and carrying prey. They are tireless trotters with excellent sight, hearing and smell for locating carrion, and they are proficient hunters as well. They are all more or less nocturnal.

Intelligent, curious and opportunistic in matters of diet, hyenas frequently come into contact with humans. Spotted hyenas range south of the Sahara except in rain forests. They are ginger colored with patterns of dark spots unique to each individual. Females at=re larger than males, weighing up to 180 pounds and measuring up to 6.5′ long. They communicate with moans, yells, giggles, and whoops, some carrying several kilometers.

Gestation is about 110 days, annual litter size is usually two pups. They hunt everything from young hippos to fish; antelopes are common. In southern Africa they kill most of their own food, hunting effectively in groups.Strong jaws and broad molars allow the animal to get at every part of a carcass and crush bones, which are digested in the stomach by highly concentrated hydrochloric acid.

They live in clans of 5-80 individuals, and mark their territory with dung piles and scent from anal glands. The sexes have a linear dominance hierarchy, the lowest female outranking the highest male.

The smaller brown hyena weighs about 40 ; the coat is shaggy with an erectile white mane over the neck. Birds and eggs, insects and fruit are staples, but leftover kills by lions, cheetahs and spotted hyenas are important. They also live in clans, but adult females nurse each other’s cubs, other clan members take food to the cubs, and females do not outrank males.

Jackals

Jackals are canids native to Africa and Eurasia. The name commonly refers to three species: the closely related black-backed jackal (above) and side-striped jackal of sub-Saharan Africa, and the golden jackal of Europe and Asia.

All jackals are opportunistic omnivores, predators of small to medium sized animals and proficient scavengers. Their long legs and curved canine teeth are adapted for hunting small mammals, birds and reptiles, and their large feet and fused leg bones give them a physique well-suited for long-distance running. Jackals are most active at dawn and dusk.

Jackals in Africa prefer to live in the open and wooded savanna, in grasslands, shrub lands and along waterways with dense undergrowth. They are 17-25 pounds in weight and 27-33 inches in length.

Their most common social unit is a monogamous pair, which defend their territory from other pairs by vigorously chasing intruders and marking landmarks with their urine and feces. Gestation period is about two months. They live in burrows, litters containing two to seven pups.

Primary predators are leopards, hyenas and eagles.

Bat-eared Fox

The bat-eared fox is a small, African fox known for its enormous ears, which are over 5 inches tall. The ears are full of blood vessels that shed heat and help keep the fox cool; they also give the fox a very goo sense of hearing.

Bat-eared foxes are sandy gray withe lighter fur on the belly and darker fur around the eyes, muzzle, back of the ears, feet and tip if its large bushy tail. The inside of the ears and a band across the forehead are white of buff.

They are not territorial. A family has several den holes with many entrances, tunnels and chambers. They can create their own or enlarge an abandoned one. Predators include eagles, jackals and hyenas.

They eat insects, with termites up to 79% of its diet. They also eat dung beetles and their larvae, grasshoppers, scorpions, lizards, fruits and eggs. They have more teeth (46-50) than most mammals. They typically live in pairs, with other females and their pups and a male fox.

They tend to hunt for termites late in the day and at night, spending most days in their dens. These foxes are fairly common in southern Africa.

More Unusual Sightings

In addition, besides the pangolin, we had three other first sightings. They were the aardwolf, the civet and the serval.

Aardwolf

The aardwolf is neither aardvark nor wolf. Their name, which means “earth wolf” in Afrikaans, refers to their underground dens and canine-like appearance. They are one of four hyena species, along with spotted hyenas, striped hyenas and brown hyenas. They have a loping, low-energy gait that they can sustain for long distances.

Aardwolfs are most similar to the striped hyena, with long muzzles, large pointed ears and black stripes on gold fur. They are exclusive to Africa. They are nocturnal, and live dry, open savannas and grasslands, and take shelter in abandoned burrows.

Most are carnivorous, but prefer insects to large prey. At night they emerge in search of mound building termites, which they lap up with long, sticky tongues by the thousands. They have a genetic trait which allows them to tolerate the insects’ noxious secretions.

Predators such as leopards, lions, black-backed jackals and spotted hyenas will kill both adult and cub aardwolves. Females go into estrus once a year, during which the solitary animals come together to mate. Gestation lasts 90 days, with litters of one to four cubs.

Populations are said to be thriving.

We had an extended sighting at Lagoon Camp while watching a leopard trying to get close to a small herd of impala.

Civets

A civet is a small, lean, mostly nocturnal mammal native to Asia and Africa, especially the tropical forests. The African civet has historically been the main species from which a musky scent used in perfumery was obtained.Civets have a broadly cat-like general appearance, though the muzzle is extended and often pointed, rather like that of an otter or mongoose. They range in length from 17-28 inches and weigh about 3-10 pounds.

Civets are native to sub-Saharan Africa as well as Asia. Favored habitats include woodland, savanna and mountain biome. Many are faced with loss of habitat, and several species are considered vulnerable.

Civets are omnivores or even herbivores. Most eat primarly fruit. Some use flower nectar as a major source of energy.

We actually had two sightings at Lagoon Camp, with one for several minutes in decent lighting conditions.

Serval

Servals look like cheetahs who stretched out after a nap and decided to stay that way. They are long-legged, long-necked, medium sized wild cats who look sleek and elegant. Their coats are unique, honey-colored and adorned with spots so close together they look like stripes. This appearance helps them blend in with the shadows of savanna grasses and forest trees, hiding from their predators which include hyenas, wild dogs and leopards.

They are remarkable hunters. They can see above tall grasses, and can perform nine-foot leaps to catch birds in flight, and run as fast as 50 MPH. They are ambush predators. Their hearing is exceptional. So they can snatch fish and frogs from the water, and take rodents from their burrows. They can take down prey 50% of the time, a much higher success rate than a group of lions.

Servals are mostly solitary, but males stay with the female for her one-four day estrus period. Gestation is 75 days, with 2-3 kittens per litter. They have a stable population numbers. Their main threat is the loss of wetlands, a habitat which holds rodents, a favorite food source.

Some servals are bred with domestic cats to produce so-called “Savannah cats”. Some places have banned owning them.

We startled a serval in high grass near water as we were following a leopard. The cat quickly demonstrated its ability to move at high speeds so no images were taken. So I have borrowed a couple from the net.

Pangolin

Now the unusual sighting! We saw in great detail and openness a live pangolin in daylight! This was a very fortuitous event. Experienced safari guides either have never seen a pangolin, or have only seen partly concealed in shrubbery.

Pangolins are ant eating mammals covered in scales made of keratin, which provide protection against predators. The scales account for about 20% of their weight, and the animal protects itself by curling into a ball. The pangolin has a long, broad tail and a small head, and has no external ears although the hearing is quite good. The tongue is wormlike and can extend up to 25 cm in length. The legs are short, and the feet have sharp claws. They are primarily nocturnal and also shy, making them difficult to find.

Pangolins feed mainly on termites but also eat ants and other insects. They range in size from a large housecat to more than four feet long.

They tend to be solitary except when mating. Some fathers will stay in the den until the single offspring is independent.

There are 8 species of pangolin, 4 in Asia and 4 in Africa. They are trafficked at high rates for their scales and meat. In 2016 CITES, the treaty that regulates the international wildlife trade, voted to ban commercial trade in pangolins. For many years the Asian species were the primary target of poachers and traffickers, but African animals are now under increasing attack. It is believed to be the world’s most trafficked non-human animal.

Cheetahs

Cheetahs are the fastest land mammal. They can reach 60 mph at a high rate of acceleration. They are very nimble at high speeds, and use their tails as a rudder and claws like spikes. They ar sometimes not considered large cats because they don’t roar, rather they purr. They have tawny coats with black spots, and black stripes from their eye corners to the edges of their mouth. They also have black rings on their tails.

They are sized like leopards, with a sleekness of their own. Typical weights are 75-140 pounds. They do not habituate in groups. Typically the female live alone and roam in large areas. Males are solitary but often seen with 1-2 companions, usually litter mates. They can mate with several partners, and a litter can contain offspring from different fathers. Litters are usually three in number, and the kittens stay with their mother for 1 1/2 years.

Cheetahs tend to be daylight hunters. They rely on stealth and camouflage, and very keen eyesight. Often they can be seen on the savannah atop small knolls or fallen trees, surveying for prey. They hunt antelopes, warthogs, hares, birds, etc. Their MO is to stalk, then sprint. Kills are by suffocation. They will eat fast, and are susceptible to kill theft by lions and hyenas.

Human growth continues to constrict the active areas for cheetahs, and they are susceptible to poaching and human responses to assaults on livestock. Cubs are open to lion kills. The species is considered vulnerable. Population in Africa is estimated at less than 7000 adults.

We quite often see cheetahs, although this year was rather lean. On our last morning at Lagoon Camp, our guide Spencer Mathambo along with K1, our tracker, was able to track and eventually find a mother cheetah and two six month old cubs.

Lions

Lions are of course a major attraction to safari goers, and the safari guides love to find them on any drive. One of the interests is that lions are often found in prides. It is not uncommon to come across a group of 3-5, and often ten or more.

Lions in Africa are often called “kings of the jungle”, but do not normally dwell in jungles. Rather they reside in savannah like areas, where there are large numbers of prey including zebras, buffalo, antelope, giraffe and wildebeest. Kills are normally made via strangulation. They typically hunt in groups, and often females do most of the hunting. Male lions tend to spend their awake time patrolling their territory, and eat when their females make a kill. Lions sleep 16-20 hours a day.

Prides are groups of female, male and cubs, and can run anywhere from six to twenty animals. Males can oversee more than one pride. Females can mate at any time, often with multiple males. In fact the female can go into estrus if she senses danger for her cubs. Males joining a pride will often kill existing cubs as they are not their offspring. Some 80% of cubs do not survive to adult hood., threatened by male lions, hyenas, leopards and wild dogs. Adults live 10-14 years in the wild. Primary risk factors to adult lions are humans.

Male lions are 26-40″ high at the shoulder and 4.5-6.5′ long, and weigh 260-420 lbs. Lions are the only cat with sexual dimorphism, where the males and females look different. Males at 2-4 develop a large mane.

The historical range of African lions is today only 8% of historical figures, and are strictly sub-Saharan today. The population of African lions is estimated at 23000., down from 30000 in 2006. The largest population is estimated to be found in the Okavango Delta of Botswana.

We saw fairly large numbers of lions on this trip, mainly at Four Rivers and Lagoo. One day we followed three females and a sub-adult male for 2-3 hours while they wandered, often stopping at small rises to survey the scene. We also encountered a pair of male brothers, both quite old and well-worn.

Leopards

Many find this species the most desired sighting in Africa. Leopards are many times difficult to find as they tend to hunt primarily at twilight and night and are quite solitary. On this most recent trip we were fortunate to see about a dozen leopards in eight days. More than usual for sure!

Leopards are found primarily in Africa ans Asia, with eight subspecies recognized. They are adapted to a variety of habitats. They are opportunistic predators, relying on their spotted patterns for camouflage as it stalks and ambushes its prey. They are active and very strong tree climbers, often hauling their dead prey up into trees, mainly to avoid theft by lions, hyenas and other predators.

They are also territorial and can wander for many miles to mark their territory. Leopards prefer medium-sized prey which tend to concentrate in small herds in wooded areas. These include impala, bushbuck, duiker and chital. They also hunt smaller prey such as jackal, fox, genet and cheetah. Typically the animal are killed by suffocation. Average daily meat consumption for an average male has been determined as almost 8 kg. Their main enemy is the lion, responsible for more than 20% of leopard deaths at one major reserve. In fact on this trip, we saw a dead female leopard who had an impala kill in a tree. She had come down for a break, and on her return was ambushed by two male lions.

Gestation period is 90-105 days, with litters of two to four cubs common. On average 40% will not live a year. Males at maturity reach 60-70 cm in height at the shoulder and weigh 30-70 kg. Their top speed is nearing 40 mph.

Leopards occur widely in Africa, the Caucasus and Asia. In Africa they are still numerous and surviving, although there is considerable potential for human-leopard conflict due to leopards preying on livestock. In addition, expanding human populations continue to diminish available areas for wildlife. Historical ranges in Africa are only about 50% of that in 1750, and most are now in sub-Saharan areas. Leopard population estimates in the world range from 50-100,000. Botswana population is thought to be 3-5000, mostly in the Okavango Delta. They are also fairly abundant in the Indian subcontinent, with a population estimated at 12-13000. We were told on our India trip earlier this year that leopards at a preserve near Jaipur commonly hunted dogs in the urban area at night.

A Trip to Botswana

Karen and I have just returned from our ninth safari sojourn to Botswana, a “habit” we began back in 2013. We found back then that we both had a yen to go on safari in Africa. I had a taste of this back in 1995 when I spent a weekend at Mala Mala Camp in Kruger National Park. Karen’s aunt and uncle had many mementos from their time in Africa which gave her the bug.

So where should we go, we asked. Karen’s friend Dick had been on Safari six times, visiting Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. He told her to go to Botswana because “that’s where the animals are!”. So we planned our first trip with the help of a young Englishman named Mark Hathaway, who lived in Maun at that time. Maun is the jumping off place for many of the numerous safari camps in Botswana, especially for the world-famous Okavango Delta.

Mark set us up with three night camp visits to Meno a Kwena in the Kalahari, Xakanaka (in Moremi) and Kwara (near Moremi) in the Delta, Lagoon in the Linyanti area and finally a two day stay on a small boat ion the Chobe River. Thia itinerary gave us a taste of the different area and we – over time – fine tuned the agenda with camps that offered a value stay in places that offered comfort but most importantly had excellent wildlife viewing.

So how does one get to Maun? A warning – the trip is long, but well worth the effort. All “roads” lead to Johannesburg (JNB). We have traveled with Delta (AUS to ATL to JNB), on British Air (AUS to LHR to JNB), and Qatar (DFW to Doha to JNB). One can also fly United direct from Newark, and various airlines via Europe. Even Turkish Air via Istanbul! So how do we decide? Simple answer – who has the cheapest business class fare at the time. Personally we like Qatar. Normally leave one day, get to JNB two days later.

Then one has to get to Maun. That is typically on Airlink, who flies larger jets twice per day from JNB to Maun. Returns are from Maun or Kasane.

So now you are actually in Botswana, in fact in Maun. What next? Of course you have one more flight today, to your first safari camp.

Once you arrive on a dirt runway, you are greeted by your safari guide and driven to the first camp. You are likely taken an an afternoon safari that day. Camp routines ar usually up at 6, quick breakfast around a campfire, off in the vehicle by 7, back at 11-12, brunch rest, off again at 4, back by 8, dinner then bed.

So let me show you where we went this year – and will again next June. Our first camp was Four Rivers in the Kwando Reserve adjacent to the north side of Moremi NP. This is a private reserve, allowing off road and night time driving. We love this reserve and have stayed in one of these three camps every year.

Our next stop, after a 30 minute flight, was Lagoon Camp, located in the Linyanti area, situated between the Delta and the Chobe in the Kwando Concession. This camp is a little older, situated on the Kwando River, and has wonderful game viewing.

Our last stop was at Muchenje Lodge, located on the west side of Chobe National Park. We love this lodge and really enjoy a more relaxing time. We rise later, go on a long boat trip on the Chobe River and see a wide variety of game including elephants, hippos, cape buffalo, crocs, lizards and much bird life.

This is just an overview of this year’s trip. Subsequent blog posts will focus on specific wildlife species, with and overview of each and lots of images.

Longhorns

We typically park at Austin airport at Fast Park, which is adjacent to an open grazing field. The field very often has a small herd of Texas longhorn cattle, sometimes close to the fence. This was the recent case and we arrived in early evening, and were able to get a few images.

Birds and Squirrels

Just spent a weekend in Indiana for our grandson’s graduation. They have a lovely backyard with lots of trees, and a couple of bird feeders. So since I had my zoom lens, I took a few pictures. Here are some of them. They include a white tailed squirrel, which I had never seen before.

Brown headed cowbird
Male Finch
Young finch
Tufted Titmouse
Finch family
White-breasted Nuthatch
Carolina Chickadee
Brown-headed Cowbird
House Finches
Goldfinch
Young Finch