We took a cruise in March of this year which went from Buenas Aires to Santiago – oops San Diego. But that is a different story about cruising and COVID! What we found fascinating about the trip was experiencing parts of the world seen originally by some of our bravest adventurers many years ago.

Cape Horn

We spent a limited time sailing to and seeing the “end of the world”. Cape Horn is the southernmost headland of the Tierra del Fuego archipelego of southern Chile, and is located on the small Hornos Island. This marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage, and is the point where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet.

Cape Horn was discovered in 1616 by Willem Schouten of Holland. For years it was a major milestone on the clipper route, by which sailing ships carried trade around the world. The waters are particularly treacherous, owing to strong winds, large waves, strong currents and icebergs.

Ushuaia

Our first stop in this area was Ushuaia, the capital of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, and the southernmost city of the country. It claims the title of world’s southernmost city. It is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, bounded on the north by the Martial mountain range and on the south by the Beagle Channel.

Beagle Channel

We cruised along the Beagle Channel on our way to Punta Arenas, Chile. The channel is a strait in Tierra del Fuego on the extreme southern tip of South America between Argentina and Chile. This channele, along with the Straits of Magellan and the open-ocean Drake Passage are the three navigable passages around South America.

The most interesting feature of the voyage along the Beagle Channel are a series of glaciers, each named after a European country. These images were taken at twilight.

There are several rivers running through the Texas Hill Country. These provide numerous interesting photographic opportunities for those who seek out scenic spots with flowing water and cypress and other trees. A small group of us recently spent a day and a half seeking out some of these areas.

Guadalupe River

The Guadalupe runs for 230 miles from Kerr County, near Hunt to San Antonio Bay in the Gulf of Mexico. It is a very popular stream for rafting, fly fishing and canoeing, and runs through larger towns like Kerrville, New Braunfels, Gonzales and Victoria. We found a couple of spots above and below Hunt, TX to check out the scene. Here are a few images.

Medina River

The Medina is sourced by springs in the Edwards Plateau, and runs for 120 miles through Bandera County, merging with the San Antonio River. We found numerous opportunities along the section that runs through the City Park in Bandera.

Frio River

The Frio starts with three tributaries near Leakey in Real County, and runs 200 miles to the Nueces River. The best photo location we found is in Garner State Park north of Uvalde, where there are wonderful opportunities just below the dam. The path winds along the river among numerous cypress trees.

 

Sabinal River

The Sabinal is a stream in Uvalde and Bandera Counties. The upper parts run through Lost Maples State Natural Area, a heavily visited area in the fall where there are numerous maples and other trees which offer pretty fall colors. This river runs for about 58 miles, sometimes underground.

 

Many photographers – including this one – like to photograph birds. I have a number of ways to do this, including through the back window toward my bird feeders, at the local Hamilton Greenbelt bird blind (excellently done by Friends of the Park) in Lakeway, bird walks at Westcave Preserve, and our beloved Botswana. But I recently visited two ranches near Uvalde, TX, which offer wonderful access to a wide variety of birds, and close up.

Transition Photo Ranch

This ranch is located near Bracketsville, TX, and was a 19, 000 acre sheep and goat ranch. It is located in the transition area between two great ecological regions of Texas, Texas Hill Country and South Texas brush country. Sandy and Leslee Hurwitz have transformed the ranch into a Photo Ranch, with the installation of four wells, ten game feeders, five blinds and miles of access roads and riding trails.

La Lomita Photography Ranch

This ranch, owned and operated by Pliny Mier and his partner Sandy Hurwitz, is a 240 acre property with loads of mesquites, shrubs, cactus and grass. This is home to over 125 species of birds, along with deer, bobcats, armadillo, rabbit,  squirrels and coyotes. The facility has several bird blinds set up to enable the capture of wonderful pictures of birds in their natural state.

Scrub Jay

Female Cardinal

Audobon’s Oriole

Green Jays

Cactus Wren

Male Cardinal

Black-throated Sparrow

Titmouse

Towhee

Golden-fronted Woodpecker

White-crowned Sparrow

Verdin

Rufus-crowned Sparrow

When Czech and German immigrants came to Texas in the 1800’s, many settled in the central part of the state and named their towns after the places they had left – Praha, Dubina, Schulenburg, Fredericksburg. These thriving communities prospered by working hard, helping one another and praying together.

In an effort to make their new churches feel more like the ancient Gothic structures of their homelands, these early settlers painted the walls, altars, and arches of their simple wooden sanctuaries in colorful patterns and clever tromp l’oeil images. These buildings came to be known as the Painted Churches of Texas. They have been preserved and stand today in honor of those whose artistry and devotion created them.

Across the landscape of the Texas Hill Country, there are 20 unassuming churches. On the outside they are white clapboard or brick. In general they are in unassuming towns. The Chamber of Commerce in Schulenburg has made it easy to see four of these beautiful churches with local, informed volunteer guides. We recently had the privilege of taking this tour, which lasted about three hours. We visited painted churches in Dubina, Ammannsville, High Hill and Praha.

Sts. Cyril and Methodius, Dubina

Dubina was settled in 1856, and is known as the “mother of Czechs in Texas”. Its first church followed 21 years later but was destroyed by a storm in 1909. The current church replaced the original in 1912. After completion the interior was painted with frescoes and the entire church was stenciled. In 1952 the entire church was painted over. It was recreated by artisans in 1983.

 

Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary Catholic Church, High Hill

A few miles away (and across the fascinating Piano Bridge) is St. Mary’s. Built in 1906, the imposing structure has an exterior of red brick, but the interior is alive with color and pattern. Bold ceilings are gold, with decorative vines and flowers climbing the arches. Every inch of the building is painted, gilded or adorned in some way. The flowers, palms and stars that grace the ceiling and walls were painted by Swiss fresco artist Gottfried Flurry. His tromp d’oeil designs mimic vaults, relief and marble seen in the ancient churches of central Europe.

 

Saint John the Baptist Catholic Church, Ammannsville

The parish began in the late nineteenth century. The first church building, built in 1890, was destroyed by a hurricane in 1909. The present church was dedicated in 1919. The interior is designed in the Gothic-Revival style, emphasized by the repeated gothic arch. It departs from the traditional basilica plan in that it has no columns, opening the entire nave to the gothic arched ceiling.

 

St. Mary’s Church of the Assumption, Praha

The church in Praha was built in 1895 with a soaring steeple and a beautiful stone facade. Inside the polished floors reflect the grand chandelier. The entire arched ceiling has a soft blue-green background, and around the edges are painted foliage and flowers. On the wall behind the hand-carved altar are three angels clad in yellow, blue and pink.

If you are a visitor to San Antonio, it is likely you will tour the Alamo, famous for the 1836 battle which led to the establishment of Texas. The Alamo was originally established as a Spanish mission in the earl 18th century, then known as San Antonio de Valero. You are less likely to tour the four other missions located along the San Antonio River south of the city, all established in the 1718-1731 period by Spanish Franciscans intent on converting the native Coahuiltecan tribes to Christianity.

The five missions were named as a World Heritage site in 2015 and are well worth touring. Each was established as a mini-city complete with a church and living spaces for priests and natives alike. Each was surrounded by a wall, and contained farming and cattle raising space with water sourced from the San Antonio River. Weekly masses are still held at each mission, and the buildings for the most part are well maintained.

Mission Concepcion

Dedicated in 1755, the church at Mission Nuestra Senora de la Purisma Concepcion de Acuna remains true to its original design, look and feel. In fact, the church stands as the oldest unrestored church in the US. Exterior paintings have faded, but original frescoes can be seen in some rooms.

 

Mission San Jose

Considered Queen of the Missions.Established in 1720, San Jose y Miguel de Aguayo is the largest mission in San Antonio. Spanish designers built the mission using Texas limestone and brightly colored stucco. At its height, it provided sanctuary and a social and cultural community for more than 300 Indians. In 2011 it underwent a $2.2 million renovation of domes, walls and the alter background.

 

Mission San Juan Capistrano

Established in 1732, Mission San Juan’s fertile farmlands used to allow for a self-sustainable community, and its surplus helped supply the region with produce. Today, the chapel and bell tower are still in use.

 

Mission Espada

The southernmost mission in the series, Mission Espada was established in 1731 and boasts the best-preserved segment of the area’s original irrigation system used to bring water to the fields. Much was restored after a fire in 1826.

 

We had a great stay at this magnificent place in early August. Redoubt Lodge is located on Crescent Lake, 120 miles SW of Anchorage deep in the Chigmit Mountains, a sub range of the Aleutian Range. The five acre site sits at the foot of Mt. Redoubt, and active (latest 2009) volcano. The lodge is surrounded by Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, established in 1980. There are no roads; access is by float plane only. Crescent Lake is 9 miles long and 4 miles wide, fed by numerous mountain streams and the Upper Crescent River; the outlet – Crescent River – winds its way down 17 miles to Cook Inlet.  The waters are turquoise blue due to rock flour or volcanic dust. The site was initially established as a remote fishing lodge owned by a family from Homer who built the original cabin, and remained a fishing lodge until the mid-1990’s. In 1999 Wayne and Jeanie Holm bought the site, and started Redoubt Mountain Lodge in 2000.

The lodge has six log cabins for 12 guests. The Main Lodge is built of logs, requires the discarding of shoes to enter, and is the focal point of all three meals and social activities.

We began our visit on Lake Hood near Anchorage at Trail Ridge Air, an air taxi company which specializes in transport to remote lodges, bear watching and fishing tours and freight hauling. Our pilot Adam helped six passengers load into a Dehavilland Beaver, taxi out on the lake and take off, headed on a 1 1/2 hour journey to Redoubt. We flew over the east side of the Kenai Peninsula and across Cook Inlet towards Mt. Redoubt.  Our views of the Aleutian Range, Mt. Redoubt and eventually Crescent Lake were spectacular.

 

Lodge

Activities at the lodge include hiking, kayaking, bear watching, fishing and – if inclined – relaxing. On arrival each couple is introduced to their guide for the stay. Ours was John Brookover, or JB. He hails from Boise and spends several months each summer at Redoubt. In his spare time he loves to fish, and he is a very accomplished artist. We focused on fishing, which Karen loves, and bear watching and photography, which I love. There were between 10 and 12 guests during our brief stay, all of whom enjoyed the great outdoors. One couple was focused on visiting all eight National Parks in Alaska. The company was warm and enjoyable, assisted by Savannah Mellon, the hospitality lead, and the three meals a day prepared by Chef Sasha Kliman were delicious.

Scenery

Fishing

The lake and streams around the lodge are filled with sockeye spawning, silver and king salmon, arctic char, Dolly Varden and Lake trout. There are seasons of course – we were there when sockeye spawning was nearing and end, and before the silvers really arrived. The Dolly Varden were busy trying to fins salmon eggs. Most fishing is “walk and wade” fly fishing so we were outfitted with waders right away. One can also fish on the lake and the river from the flat bottomed boats.

Bears

About 98% of US brown bears are in Alaska, where salmon is the primary food source. Inland brown bears are also called grizzlies. Black bears abound as well. At this time of year, with the salmon spawning at Crescent Lake and River, the bears are in abundance and bear watching is a favorite activity. We were able to observe the bears from boats so were able to approach quite close, favoring the photographer.

A highlight of our Alaska trip was an 8 1/2 hour cruise along the Kenai Fjords. Operated by Major Marine, the cruise runs from Seward to the remote, glacier-carved Northwestern Fjord. The ship Viewfinder has limited capacity (about 60 people) and provides the unique opportunity for up-close wildlife viewing and exploration. The cruise runs through Resurrection Bay past the Chiswell Islands into Harris Bay, with its’ views of hidden coves, rugged mountains and feeding whales.

Northwestern Fjord allows views of numerous alpine glaciers nestled high on the cliffs; these are part of the huge Harding Ice Field. We visited three glaciers which abutted the sound including Northwestern, Anchor and Ogive Glaciers, all active, calving tidewater glaciers.

Wildlife viewing on this excursion was fair, as we saw numerous porpoises, whales, puffins, eagles, sea otters, shore birds, and sea lions. A highlight was the sighting of a large male orca, who teased us by disappearing and reappearing numerous times. At one point the orca glides alongside the ship and dove under; we had the pleasure of seeing his large dorsal fin literally within reach of the side walkway.

On our recent trip to Alaska, we spent an evening in Soldotna, located on the west coast of the Kenai Peninsula. After dinner at an excellent Thai restaurant, we drove to the Kenai (town) area, specifically Old Town Kenai.This locale was established in 1791 by Russian fur traders and is situated on a bluff overlooking the Kenai River and Cook Inlet.

A significant attraction in Old Town is the Holy Assumption Orthodox Church, a Russian orthodox parish church completed in 1896. This was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1970. The church is in a Pskov style, shaped like a ship, with three onion shaped domes. The inside, reportedly quite attractive, is home to several significant pieces of artwork, artifacts and icons, and is well worth visiting.

The site first had a church built in 1849 by Igumen Nikolai on a nearby plot. This church became a key for the assimilation of the local native population. The church was replaced by the Chapel of St. Nicholas in 1906 over the graves of Igumen Nikolai and two others. There is also an old fisherman’s cabin which is quite charming.

Lastly, one should take some time to gaze out at Cook Inlet and the Katmai Peninsula, especially in the late evening light.

We were fortunate last month to spend several days on a 43″ sailboat in the Gulf Islands of British Columbia. This is a delightful area of our world, and is much cooler than Texas. Our dear relatives always take us to interesting harbors to spend the evening during a casual voyage like this. Here are three of them.

North Saanich Marina

This marina is a favorite on southern Vancouver Island for sailing and boating in the Gulf Islands, San Juan Islands and beyond. It is set in protected Shoal Harbor in Sydney, BC, about 20″ from Victoria and 10 minutes from the airport. Adjacent is the Sydney N. Saanich Yacht Club. We were picked up sailboat at this location, and began several days of cruising in the Gulf Islands.

Genoa Bay

Genoa Bay is located on Vancouver Island near Duncan, BC. It was named by an Italian immigrant after his home town,  who established a business here in 1858. This is a sanctuary with tree lined hilly shores offering a sheltered moorage. The marina is a rustic hideaway full of old sailboats and funky, colorful boathouses. The cafe offers a delightful selection of Pacific Coast seafood and local produce, set on a lovely site overlooking the harbor. The approach to the Bay offers a panoramic view of both Salt Spring Island and Vancouver Island.

 

Pirate’s Cove

Pirate’s Cove is a well protected smallish harbor on the SE coast of DeCourcy Island, located near Nanaimo, BC. The island is sparsely populated and is totally off the grid; the residents like this. The island’s history is colorful, from extensive First Nations use to a homestead for the Aquarian Foundation. That was a religious cult led by Brother XII who convinced some 8000 people to join him on the island in the 1920’s.

The harbor has a very shallow entrance, requiring many boats to enter at High tide. The BC Marine Provincial Park located here offers a very pretty walk through the woods and up several staircases to reach the rocky entrance to the Cove. The cove includes a normal marina with space primarily limited to residents, and a series of chain link connection for anchorage along the shore. We also found a delightful bakery stand along the road on a walk we took one day.

 

Cruising

Giraffes are one of the most loved mammals in Africa, possibly after the elephant. Fully grown giraffe males can attain a height of 20′ – most of that neck of course, and weigh between 1600 and 2000 lbs. Females are about 20% shorter and lighter. On top of a giraffe’s head are ossicones, unique structures that are neither horns nor bumps; rather they are hardened bits of cartilage covered by skin. The uses are unclear, ranging from intimidation to sexually related to heat dissipation.

All belong to the same genus and species, with nine different sub species including the Nubian, the reticulated, the Angolan, the Kordofan, the Masai, the South African, the West African the Rhodesian and Rothchild’s. Some argue there are acually four separate species; the Northern, the Reticulated, the Masai and the Southern.

Giraffes range in the wild throughout Africa, but are most often found in the savannas and the woodlands. The most common herd is made up of adult females and their calves, and a few males. These can typically total 10-20 individuals. Herds are typically egalitarian with no clear leader.

The gestation period for giraffes is about 15 months. At birth, calves are about 5 1/2 feet tall. They are weaned at 15-18 months. Females have their first calves at 5-6 years.

Giraffes subsist on a variable vegetarian diet that includes leaves, stems, flowers and fruits. They do not have to drink daily. Their main diet consists of variants of the acacia tree. They are ruminants, and constantly chew their cud. Herds forage together, and have a home range that averages 100 square miles. Interestingly a group of standing giraffes is called a “tower”; when walking they become a”journey”.

Giraffes are classed as vulnerable by the IUCN, because of ongoing habitat loss, expansion of agriculture and population growth, civil unrest, illegal hunting and ecological changes. They are unlikely;y to be attacked by lions or hyenas, which may attack young, sick or aged individuals.