The city of Marrakech is a real favorite of ours, as Karen and I have each been there three times – together the last two. In fact, the name “Marrakech” was the first subject she and I ever spoke about! Together with our dear friends Molly and Carl, we spent six nights in this delightful place on our recent Moroccan tour.

Marrakech is the fourth largest city in Morocco. The city is situated west of the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The region has been inhabited by Berber farmers since Neolithic times. The city was founded in 1070 by Emir Abu Bakr ibn Umar as the imperial capital of the kingdom. Beginning in the 17th century the city became popular among Sufi pilgrims for its seven patron saints who are entombed here.

Marrakech comprises an old fortified city packed with vendors and their stalls. The medina quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city has the largest traditional market (souk) in Morocco, with some 18 souks selling wares from traditional Berber carpets to modern consumer electronics. Crafts employ a significant portion of the population, who primarily sell their products to tourists.

Our first day was primarily taken up with a medina tour conducted by Fatima, a lovely young tourist guide. We met at the Koutoubia Mosque, a familiar landmark in the city. The mosque features intricate tile work, salmon-hued walls, expansive archways and an impressive 253-foot tall minaret. It was built in the 12th century.

Our first stop was a visit to the Saadian tombs. This cemetery features more than 160 tombs filled with the remains of prominent Saadians, who were members of an Arab dynasty and descendants of the prophet Muhammed. The tombs date back to the 14th century and the decor from the 16th century includes cedar ceilings, colorful mosaics and Carrera marble headstones.

We then visited the Bahia Palace. This 19th century palace exemplifies the lavish lifestyle of the Moroccan elite. The property housed various Moroccan royals. The public areas are open and feature rounded entryways that lead to colorful mosaics and intricate latticework, as well as cool shady walkways that lead to vast, sunny courtyards and gardens.

We then enjoyed a delightful lunch at the LeJardin Restaurant.

After lunch, we diverted from museum-like visits to wandering and shopping in the souks. There are literally miles of narrow, winding “streets” (no cars, only people, donkeys and motorbikes) with shops, cafes, bakeries, hammams, spice stands, etc. to ogle at. The bakery was quite interesting. Each neighborhood typically has a local bakery which bakes bread supplied by the residents.

And nearby a man is heating fires to supply steam for the adjacent Hammam (Local baths) and cooking tanjias for a local restaurant – beef or lamb dish baked in a clay pot under ashes.

And then the souks and shops.

A major highlight in Marrakech is the main square known as Jemaa el Fna, filled during the day with food stands, vendors, orange juice stands, snake charmers, donkey carts and hundreds if not thousands of people milling around. Then at night the hot food stands come out, offering sheep’s head, tagines, tangias, fried seafood, snails and other Moroccan dishes.

Volubilis is a partially excavated Berber-Roman city near Meknes, Morocco. Established late in the BC era by Juba II, it became the capital of Mauretania and was one of the most remote Roman cities of the time. It is quite near the holy city of Moulay Idriss, which overlooks Volubilis from the adjacent hillside.

It was once home to about 20,000 people, it was actively part of the Roman Empire until the Romans left in 285 AD. The Berbers took over the site in the 800 AD range, managed by Idriss I.

The French began early excavation of the site in the 1830’s, and work continues to this day. It was declared a World Heritage site in 1997. Volubilis is well worthwhile visiting as part of a stay in Fes. There is a nicely done visitor center with historical information, pictures and a few exhibits.

One day while in Fes, we drove about 3.5 hours north through the farmlands to see the beautiful city of Chefchouen (“the Blue City”) in the Rif Mountains. The city nestles in the hollow of the two mountains -ech-Chaoua (the Horns) – from which it takes its name. Steep narrow streets with white and indigo limewashed buildings, small squares, ornate fountains and houses with elaborately decorated doorways and red tile roofs make this a delightful town. It was founded in 1471 by Idrissid shorfa, descendants of the prophet Mohammed.

The Drive

The drive was beautiful as the road would through a somewhat hilly terrain filled with farmlands, orange groves, small villages – and the most olive trees in existence!

The City

Many of the older buildings in the medina are painted blue. We heard of several reasons, including “to look nice”, to attract tourists”, “it repels mosquitos”, “blue is the sky according to the Jews”, “blue is cooler”, “blue represents water – essential for human life”. Who really knows but it is pretty!

We visited many places, saw a lot of interesting things, slept in several riads and ate many meals. Our favorites:

Riad Itrane, Marrakech

This is a lovely riad in Marakech, located within the medina in the Dabachi quarter and 200 meters from Jamaa el Fna, the main square. It is owned and managed by Charlotte and patrice, who are a delight to work with. It is a 17th century house and is quite magnificent with many treed terraces, seating area, rooftop and comfortable rooms. We also ate several meals at the riad, including chicken tagines and a wide selection of Moroccan salads.

Villa Maroc, Essaouisa

Thia is a lovely 18th century riad hotel located in the midst of Essaouira, with access to souks, waterfront, restaurants, harbor and historical sites in a beautiful city. The riad has 21 rooms, each one different from the other, spread among three floors. Many have views of the Atlantic. Very comfortable and convenient place to stay.

Le Fondouk, Marrakech

Located in a rather shabby area, one gets to this restaurant led by men in cloaks with lanterns down a dusty alley to a luxurious building. After three flights of stairs, one enters a lovely rooftop restaurant. The food is equally enchanting.

Pepe Nero, Marrakech

Pepe Nero is a delightful Italian restaurant located a five minute walk from Jamaa el Fna. It is housed in the Riad Al Moussika, the former residence of the Pasha of Marrakech. One enters into a Moorish courtyard, complete with pool, trees and wonderful scents. And the food is delicious and very nicely served.

La Table by Madada, Essaouira

This is a delightful restaurant as well, which used to also be home to a cooking school that Karen and I attended a few years ago. It is located a two minute walk from Villa Maroc in a very clean and safe side street.

Fes, founded in 789 AD, is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities. It is located on the River Fes near the Middle Atlas, and is Morocco’s third largest city. Fes is a World Heritage site.

The Riad

We stayed in Fes for four nights at Riad Idrissy, located within the medina. The riad is a 400 year old building with thee floors, and very steep stairways. It was named after the founder of Fes, Moulay Idriss. Riad Idrissy was totally restored beginning in 2006. Meals are served in the Ruined Garden, complete with mosaic floors and fountains and a somewhat overgrown garden.

We spent just one day in Fes itself. Our tour included a ceramics factory, the Jewish quarter, an overall vista of the city and the souks. We actually finished the tour at an Jewish antiques store owned by the father of our guide. The souks are always fascinating of course.

We began our recent two week trip to Morocco with a flight into Casablanca. Karen had been in Morocco 12 or so years ago, and was taken to see the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca. However the tour guide had failed to confirm that the mosque was open for visitors! So Karen was insistent that we visit the mosque on this trip, and it was open indeed.

History

On his birthday in 1980, the Moroccan king (King Hassan II) declared that the great Hassan II Mosque was to be commissioned and built giving Casablanca a unique monument. The construction of the mosque, designed by French architect Michael Pinseau, began in 1986 on reclaimed land in a dilapidated area near the ocean front. It was completed in August 1993. Almost all the materials in the mosque come from Morocco, except for the imported white granite columns and glass chandeliers (from Murano near Venice). The cedar comes from the Middle Atlas and the granite from Tafraoute.

Over 6000 Moroccan masters and artisans were employed to work these local materials into intricate decorations that embellish the entire structure.

About the Mosque

The Mosque is magnificent in size and in the quality of the building. It is one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in the world after the Great Mosque in Mecca and the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina.

The minaret at 210 meters is the tallest in the world. A maximum of 105,000 believers can gather for prayer; up to 25,000 can be accommodated in the prayer hall, while 80,000 can be accommodated on the esplanade. The main prayer hall measures 100 meters by 200 meters, and is 65 meters high (all three measurements dd up to 365).

What to See

The mosque is open to all Muslims during prayer times. Non-Muslims can enter on tours that are held several times per day. The most distinctive feature of the mosque is its spectacular location on a platform above the Atlantic. Part of the floor is made of glass, so that worshipers can kneel right above the sea.

The style of the Mosque shows strong Moorish influences reminiscent of the Alhambra and Mezquita in Spain. Horseshoe arches are common both inside and inside, and the walls and pillars of the interior are finely carved in a variety of intricate patterns. There is a huge women’s gallery to the right as one turns from the prayer area, which is beautifully carved out of dark wood. On the ground floor, there are Turkish style baths and fountains for washing.

Elephant Havens was established with the primary goal of rescuing baby elephant orphans, raising them and ultimately releasing them back into the wild as young adults. The charity hopes to become a leading voice in wildlife conservation awareness and wildlife protection. However the little elephants also insist that the charity engages with their human neighbors as part of the mission.

Community Outreach

Elephant Havens has hired all local Botswana staff from the Delta area and immediate community. As of today EH employs 24 people, impacting them and their families.

EH has successfully drilled three water wells for the local community to provide the first ever fresh drinking water to the area.

The Foundation has initiated outreach to those most in need and are feeding those folks who the team can identify as most critically affected by the covid shutdown.

Several recent initiatives have been to complete or repair new bridges over flooded channels that lead to the community.

EH has acquired a new Toyota bus, and makes four trips each morning and four trips each afternoon to the local school. The local children can now avoid the dangerous miles-long trek to school through corridors used by elephants moving between the water and the mopane woodlands.

The bus has proven to be such a success that the local school now overflows with students. EH is providing tents as classrooms to shelter the overflow and provide the opportunity for more children than ever to engage in learning.

EH is providing school uniforms and shoes for 150 students, with the uniforms to be sown by local tailors.

EH supports local women by training them in the craft of paper-making using elephant dung. These ladies are making quite a successful business out of their beautiful paper products that are sold on the property.

EH has built toilet facilities for the local community center.

EH has established relationships with local leaders and classrooms of students. Several classrooms of students have visited the orphanage and had their first positive interaction with elephants.

EH has recently provide 100 milk goats to ten local farmers to raise and sell goat milk. This product is very beneficial to the young elephants. Each farmer will tend to their goats, provide milk to EH until the value reaches the original cost of the goats. At that point the farmers will own the goats and will sell the milk to EH.

Partnership

1. EH is approved as one of 12 wildlife partners with the Dallas Zoo.
2. Dallas Zoo interns chose EH as their conservation project and raised $20,000 for the Foundation.
3. EH’s Botswana vet, Dr. Comfort Nkgowe, visited Dallas and Houston zoos to tech and learn.
4. The Dallas Zoo has provided some of the equipment as well as specifications for the establishment of a proper “bush” veterinary lab. They also sent two of their employees to help set up the lab and train the local team in Botswana how to do simple lab tests.

MmaMotse

MmaMotse (means Haven)is the first elephant rescued by EH when just over one year old. She was orphaned because of suspected poaching. She is now almost five and is the matriarch of the group.

Lerumo (with Sandy)

Lerumo (means Bullet) is just over four,and female. She was rescued at 3 1/2 after being shot resulting in a gaping hole in her trunk. Nursed back to health she has become a very sweet baby girl.

Tsholofelo

Tsholofelo (means Hope) is just over four and male. He was rescued at 1 1/2 years due to drought conditions in Eretsha.

Bokamoso

Bokamoso (means Future) is a one 1/2 year old female, rescued at 10 months. Boko is very feisty but loves contact with the handlers, and Debra for sure!

Mofalodi

Mofalodi (means Survivor) is just over three and a male. He was rescued at 1 1/2, orphaned because his mother died of cyanobacteria in the panhandle of the Delta. He loves his milk and Bee’s thumb!

Sandy

Sandy was named in honor of Alexander McCall Smith, the famous Scottish author. He is 2 /1/2 years old, rescued at 1 year when his mother was killed by humans. He was featured in the book called How to Raise an Elephant, a volume in The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series.

Tshepiso

Tshepiso (means Promise) is 3 1/2, rescued at 9 months after her mother was killed by humans. She was very traumatized for some time, probably because she had seen her mother killed. After MmaMotse weeks with her in the boma, and she has become quite relaxed and fond of oranges.

Bonolo

Bonolo (means Calm) has just turned five. She was rescued at age 2 1/2 when her mother was killed by poachers.She was born with just one tusk, apparently quite common. She is a calm, sweet girl.

Seloko

Seloko (means Mud) is just over two, and was rescued at 1 1/2 when she became stuck in mud, and was abandoned by the herd. He has become very attached to his bottle, and hates to give it up.

The Property

The original site of the orphanage has tripled in size and includes a mud wallow and sand bathing area as well as plenty of browsing and grazing habitat. Local tribal authorities, land boards and communities have gifted Elephant Havens with 840 acres of additional land. This will be used for soft release of the elephants as they outgrow the nursery at age 4-5. They will then spend 5-9 years with little human contact before reintroduction into the Delta.

There are 13 enclosed boma area (enclosures), plus 2 bomas for the temporary quarantine of new elephants. We are currently raising 9 orphaned elephants, all under five years of age.

On-site the facilities include an elephant formula prep kitchen, laundry, laboratory, food and medical storage room, refrigeration for elephant medicines and formula, and a scale for weighing the elephants.

The site is fully fenced with an adult elephant-proof solar-powered electric fence, as specified by Botswana wildlife officials.

The guest reception area includes a kitchen, dining room, meeting room and bathroom, as well as a lovely expansive porch.

The staff village is home to 15 on-site staff members. The project requires satff on duty 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

Elephant Handlers

Many of you know that we are huge fans and donors to a wonderful charity called Elephant Havens Wildlife Foundation, the principal funder of Elephant Havens in Botswana. I am taking the liberty of plagiarizing their written information, but I want to provide my subscribers and readers a detailed description of this venture. Karen and I became involved originally when we met Boago Poloko, the elephant handler at Abu, in 2015. This meeting and a friendship on Facebook evolved into us meeting Scott and Debra in 2018. We were enthralled with their plans and we became an early donor to the foundation. Our admiration for Bee, Debra and Scott and their dedication to protecting the elephants and providing aid and comfort to the local community has only deepened with the passage of time.

About Elephant Havens

Debra Stevens and her husband Scott Jackson have been trekking to Africa from the US since 2000. Over the years, they fell in love with the villagers and wildlife. But it was on a visit to Botswana in 2013 when Debra met a 6-month-old orphaned elephant named Naledi that her life changed forever. The connection between them was instantaneous and a lifelong bond was created.

The possibility of saving more orphaned or abandoned babies like Naledi inspired Debra and Scott, along with their local Botswana friend and experienced elephant handler, Boago Poloko, to found the non-profit Elephant Havens Wildlife Foundation in 2017. This mission to protect and preserve the African elephant was truly founded by love.

Elephant Havens Wildlife Foundation was formed in 2017 as a 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation based in the US. The US charity supports Elephant Havens operating in Botswana as a separate Botswana charitable trust. In 2018 the Trust was awarded a one-of-a-kind permit by Botswanan authorities that allows the team to quickly rescue and move orphaned and abandoned elephants and raise them with the goal of returning them to the wild – a project that will take more than ten years from the time of rescue for each elephant.

Through habitat protection, community outreach and the rescue and hand-rearing of young elephant orphans, Elephant Havens aims to become a leading voice in wildlife conservation awareness and wildlife protection.

With funds from generous donors, we built the Elephant Havens orphanage on the edge of the Okavango Delta. With more than 850 acres of land, this sanctuary for abandoned and orphaned elephants is a safe place for them to be cared for until they can be reintroduced into the wild. We encourage both foreign visitors and local community members to visit and learn more about these remarkable animals.

We are also working to bridge the gap between communities and wildlife. By educating local communities on elephant behavior and habitat protection, we hope to instill an understanding of the benefits of conservation. Beyond this we also work with the local community to provide resources that make a positive impact on their lives.

Our team in Botswana is creating educational activities and experiences aimed at helping people of all ages to understand and appreciate wildlife and wild lands, encouraging people to take action to conserve it now and for future generations.

The Founders

Boago Poloko, or “Bee”, has been part of Elephant Havens from the very beginning. He is a third generation elephant handler who was raised by his handler father and grandfather. Bee is also a licensed safari guide and a naturalist. In the past he worked at Abu Camp supervising a healthy breeding herd that lived as wild elephants during the day and returned home to the bomas at night. There he learned how to raise these deceptively fragile orphan elephants to adulthood. At Elephant Havens, Bee manages our team of handlers and oversees all aspects of rescue and care of our elephants.

Debra Stevens learned how enticing elephants are as a species after she met and fell in love with a 6-month-old orphaned elephant on one of her many trips to Africa. These animals so need love and connection to community that they simply can’t live without it. She is determined to give orphaned and abandoned babies a “family” of both humans and other elephants so they can thrive and eventually be reintroduced to the wild. Debra is chief fundraiser and evangelist for Elephant Havens and travels fro Dallas to Botswana every other month to bond with the elephants and work with the team there.

Scott Jackson was introduced to Africa by Debra on their honeymoon. After decades behind a desk he found that in Botswana and other areas of sub-Saharan Africa, the human footprint was light and at every turn there was something new to discover and learn. He quickly developed the same passion for elephants that his wife has always known. While maintaining his regular real estate law practice in Dallas, Scott also guides the U.S. charity’s grant writing efforts and helps coordinate operations on the ground for projects in Africa, from elephant care to construction and insurance, land acquisition to permit procurement and more.